I said I wasn't going to do this race. My friends asked me for months, enticed me with the warmth of Arizona, laid the fear-of-missing-out on thick. And then I gave in and said yes. How do you train for a rocky, desert run in the mountains while living in Michigan? My race strategy was to run all the miles, hit the hilly trails in our area whenever possible, and also get in a lot of hiking on technical trails. Somehow, Michigan gave us pretty much the best running weather possible in January and I was able to get a lot of quality training in. The race has an overall cutoff of 20 hours, but those who finish under 17 hours receive a ticket to the Western States Endurance Run lottery. I figured that sub-17 time was most likely out of my range, but I'd give it my best shot.
Black Canyon 100k begins in Mayer, AZ and travels south to the finish line at the Emery/Henderson Trailhead. Along the way, runners pass through nine aid stations. Three of these aid stations, Bumblebee Ranch, Black Canyon City, and Table Mesa, give us the chance to have drop bags filled with clothing, gear, and food we might need. With temperatures predicted to swing from the low 30's to the low 70's and back throughout the course of the day, several river crossings, a two thousand foot drop in elevation, and the onset of darkness shortly after 6pm, there was a lot to consider. There was also a consideration of pace. This race boasts a fast first half, with several long downhill sections, but they warned runners many times not to go out too fast, and save enough juice to get through the much harder second half. I decided I'd stick to a comfortable pace, but I knew if I wanted to have a chance at finishing in under 17 hours, I'd need to be through Black Canyon City aid station by 4:30pm. There would be no time to dawdle at aid stations or to spend a lot of time walking!
Kara and I arrived in Arizona late Wednesday, and her cousins graciously offered to have us stay with them for our trip. On Thursday, we explored for the day in Sedona, and then it was time to get down to business. We had to decide what we were wearing, what we were carrying, and what we were putting in each drop bag. Walter, the chocolate lab, was very helpful.
We headed to packet pickup after breakfast, which was held in Black Canyon City. Prior to the actual packet pickup, there was a one hour shakeout run, that somehow Matt, Jon, Josh, and Kara talked me into. Why can't I say no to these people?! There was a good sized crowd there for the run, and our group pulled up the rear, more interested in taking in the sights than a lot of actual running.
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| photo by: Scott Rokis |
Four miles later, we were all back where we started, picking up bibs and t-shirts and shopping at the expo. The place was buzzing with nervous excitement and I loved it.
After lunch with the guys, we all went our separate ways to relax and prepare for the big day. I chose to lounge poolside back at the Meyers' house, and just veg out. We headed to Old Town Scottsdale for dinner and met up with Scott and his wife, and Filip for dinner. I met Scott and Filip back in 2016, when I ran my first 50 miler, and our paths have crossed several times over the years. Scott lives in Tennessee and Filip lives out west, yet this strange and wonderful ultrarunning life brings us together time and again.
I actually managed to sleep a little the night before the race, and woke up ready to rock. After a quick breakfast at the house, Kara and I headed to the place where we'd leave our car and take the shuttle to the start. We met up with the guys again, and snapped a quick pic before Josh had to leave us. Matt, Jon, Kara, and I were all assigned to Wave 2, starting at 7:30am, while Josh was scheduled for Wave 3, starting at 8am.
There were several busses for our wave and everyone chatted about last minute race strategies and how they were feeling. The busses didn't end up taking off until nearly 6:50am, and with a forty minute drive to the start, I'll tell you how I was feeling: NERVOUS. How were we going to be able to start at 7:30am when all these busses were going to pull in and then a large percentage would need to use the bathrooms prior to the start?! We arrived at 7:26am, and upon exiting the busses, we all ran to the port-a-potties. There was an instant lineup, but thankfully I didn't have to wait too long. We headed to the starting line, where some runners had managed to start on time. Thankfully, this was a chipped race, and our official start time would begin when we crossed the starting line. At 7:31am, my race began.
After one loop around the track, we headed out of town in a big conga line. The day was sunny with blue skies, but the wind was frigid. I was glad I had opted for long pants, along with a jacket, hat, and mittens to start the race off. I figured I could shed layers as needed, and I had stuffed some shorts into my pack in case I needed them before I got to my first drop bag at Mile 19.
Kara and I settled into our pace, with Matt and Jon a little bit behind us. Thanks to the sunshine and the slow drop in elevation, it only took 2-3 miles for me to warm up enough to tie my coat around my waist.
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| photo by: Kara Herber |
Soon we were approaching the iconic windmill. Aside from the mountains surrounding us the entire race, this is the one landmark that this race is known for.
As we left the windmill, the trail took a right and led us up our first long, slow climb.
As always, though, what goes up, must come down, and I was running again as soon as I crested the top.
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| photo by: Kara Herber |
We cruised through the first aid station, stopping only long enough for my traditional orange picture.
The next several miles had a few rolling hills but the trail was mostly downhill. I kept a good pace, and around every turn was greeted with breathtaking landscapes and the distant snow-capped mountains. It wasn't safe to take your eyes off the trail for too long, though. Loose rocks of all sizes were abundant underfoot, and various forms of pokey plants and cacti would reach out and grab your legs and arms if you got too close to them.
By the second aid station near Mile 13, I was now wanting to shed nearly all of my clothing. The day had warmed up considerably, and I took a moment to take off one of my shirts, along with my pants. A tank and light long sleeve top, along with running shorts was was more comfortable and I was ready to tackle more miles. It was slightly annoying to be carrying so much extra clothing with me, but I knew I'd be able to dump it all in my drop bag at Mile 19.
Just after we left that aid station, Matt and Jon caught up to us. I was happy to see them and we quickly joined them in their 4:2 running/walking rhythm we had all trained by.
A few miles before the aid station at Bumblee Ranch, Matt took off. He was on a mission and I was happy to see him go! He was here for a sub-17 or bust! Kara and I followed Jon into the aid station and were thankful for the short break and the chance to regroup.
We also had access to our drop bags at this point, so I thankfully dropped off my coat, pants and warmer shirt, and refilled my snacks and grabbed a headlamp just in case. What had I been looking forward to most? Trail Peeps!
And then, like I knew he would, Josh caught up to us!
He ran with us just for a short time and then he bounded on down the trail, and again, I was happy to see him go. He was having a great race and that's what I like to see. On the other hand, Kara and Jon were struggling a bit, and I parted ways with them, hoping they'd catch up down the trail. Runners came and went, but I spent most of my time solo, navigating the rocks and soaking up the sun and just going on my merry way. Here and there I'd come upon these cattle fences, where we were instructed to open and go through and then close them so the cows stayed where they should be! It was such a wide open space, I found it strange that the cows just roamed for miles and that these little fences crossing the trail would keep them in their places.
Next up was my first river crossing of the day! This one was pretty shallow and the river wasn't too wide here, but nevertheless, about ten steps across left my shoes and socks thoroughly soaked, and my feet kind of numb from the frigid water of the Agua Fria River.
The coldness of my feet wore off over the next mile or so, and my shoes and socks seemed to mostly dry out in the arid Arizona climate. The day had really warmed up and honestly, the coldness of the water was a welcomed relief to me! After that river crossing, the trail led up and away from it, and soon I was looking down over that river from high above.
I continued on, mostly feeling good, but starting to notice my quads protesting a little. A little voice in my head started to ask how I was going to be able to make it with more than another 50k to go. My main goals were to continue running the downhills as fast as possible, hiking up the uphills as efficiently as possible, and to stay away from anything trying to poke me.
When I came into the next aid station, the first volunteer took one look at me and said, "You might want to visit our sunscreen table. You're looking a bit red." Yes, I knew that already. I could feel it. Was I willing to stop at this point to handle that? No, I was not. A quick shot of Coke and I was on my way. There were just a few more miles to the aid station at Black Canyon City and I was in a hurry to get there!
I soon came to the next river crossing, and without hesitating, I plunged forward. Other runners were picking and choosing their routes, trying to hop rocks and keep their feet dry, but knowing my luck, I'd slip and fall doing that, so I just bounded across the river. Again, the water was icy cold but I was ready for it this time and knew the warmth of the day would help dry my shoes and socks.
The next few miles passed pretty quickly and I knew I was nearing the Black Canyon City aid station. It was just before 4pm as I covered those miles, and I was right on track with my plan.
A portion of the trail is an out-and-back coming into and leaving Black Canyon City, and this gave me the opportunity to see who was a mile or two ahead of me. Less than a mile before the aid station, there was Josh! He was looking great and in good spirits and I told him I'd see him at the finish. As I came into Black Canyon City, I found Matt there, in the middle of his shoe change. I quickly grabbed what I needed from my drop bag along with a couple hummus and avocado wraps from the aid station and was able to catch Matt just as he was leaving.
We headed back up and out of Black Canyon City and quickly came upon Kara. She was ready for a slight break and she was still on track to finish sub-17. Go Kara! Next, we came upon Jon, who gave us the unfortunate news that he'd be dropping from the race when he got to the aid station. He was having a hard time with the elevation and just wasn't moving as well as he had hoped to. Sadness. He wished us well and we carried on down the trail. Shortly, we came to our next river crossing. This one was about as deep as the other, but a little wider. Another full soaking of the shoes and socks ensued, but we were pros by this point and just kept on truckin'.
Next came a ridiculously long climb. Matt and I kept a good pace, but every time we looked up, there were still runners higher than us. Even when we thought we were at the top, there was only a slight downhill before the trail headed back up again. My pace slowed a little and Matt went on ahead. I don't even have any pictures from this section because it was a bit of a suffer-fest for me.
The constant uphill finally came to an end and my legs recovered enough to give me some speed. I sailed down the mountain and caught up with Matt once again. I felt good for a while and then slowly my pace ebbed again. I watched Matt disappear ahead of me and I figured I wouldn't catch him again in the race. The daylight was fading, but I wasn't ready for my headlamp yet. I was still enjoying the scenery, from the rocks to the cacti and the gorgeous sunset on the horizon.
Just before sunset, I heard a commotion down below. Music and shouting and engines? Soon I could see what was happening. A long trail of jeeps, all with their own music blaring, was trying to navigate the rocky, dry riverbed. Some were having great success, and others were not. About every fourth vehicle was stuck, and other drivers were out, yelling at them, and shoving rocks under their tires to help them along. It was a little comical and a little ridiculous to watch!
I was hoping to make it to the Cottonwood Gulch aid station before I needed my headlamp, but about a mile before that, I needed to stop and get it out. It was officially too dark to see the trail and I couldn't afford to trip and fall at this point. I had started to feel a little sick to my stomach around Mile 42, and I wasn't hungry at all when I came into the aid station. I forced some Coke down, filled my pack with water, and grabbed a cup of hot broth to go. My pack was still filled with snacks from Black Canyon City, but I couldn't bring myself to eat anything.
In the next few miles, the darkness helped cool off the day, and despite my upset stomach I was still moving pretty well. Runners would come and go, but I was mostly alone and enjoyed the sound of the crickets under the night sky. Around Mile 49, I came to the final river crossing. There was a short, rushing river to navigate, a bit of gravel shore, and then a deeper, wider portion of river to cross. I plunged right in, anxious to get this last bit water past me. As I neared the end of the crossing, the bottom of the river turned to thick, slippery mud. I slid a couple times, and as I tried to get up on the riverbank, I almost fell over backwards. My arms flew up in the air, and I managed to catch my balance and get myself up and out of that sludge. Falling wasn't on my to-do list, and falling into a muddy river definitely wasn't on my to-do list.
I sure was glad when I came into the Table Mesa aid station. I quickly grabbed my final drop bag and plopped myself down on the ground. It was a struggle, but I managed to pry my wet and muddy shoes and socks from my feet and was delighted to put on new, warm socks and shoes. It's funny how just that slight change can really boost your morale! I had also packed a full change of warm clothes, but I was quite comfortable still in my shorts and long-sleeved shirt. I also had a jacket with me if the night got too chilly. Again, I couldn't stand the thought of eating anything, so I took a shot of Coke and decided at the last minute to take a cup of ramen to go.
I headed off into the darkness and quickly found myself the most alone I had been the entire day. The course markers told me I was on the correct trail, but there wasn't a headlamp to be seen ahead of me, and the lights behind me were way in the distance. I decided to put in my AirPods and just cruise as fast as I could. The night was dark, with bright stars above me-they almost seems close enough to reach out and touch! And the trail was rocky, and winding, and full of small ups and downs. My stomach was only allowing me to run for small amounts at a time, but time was ticking. I did some quick math in my head and with nine miles to go, if I kept all of my miles under a 20 minute per mile pace, I could make it in under 17 hours. Now, I realize that a 20 minute per mile pace is not fast. But I had been at this since 7:30am and the rocks and climate and climbs had been relentless. My quads were pretty much blown, and my stomach was not happy. Plus, there was still another aid station to pass through. I kept on moving, mostly walking but running when I could. A 17 minute mile, an 18 minute mile. Things were moving so slowly but I was banking a little bit of time each mile. I didn't want to be this close to earning that sub-17 finish and blow it at the very end. I kept going, comforted by the now steady trail of headlamps behind me in the darkness.
I came through the final aid station, once again opting for only Coke. There was no time for anything at this point other than getting myself to that finish line. In 3.6 miles, I'd have my sub-17 finish. I kept trying to run but my stomach kept saying, "NO!" Besides, I didn't have the time to stop and puke on the side of the trail. So, I mostly walked those last few miles. And it was very painful. I kept trying to compare it to Tunnel Hill 100, but how can you compare a flat, rail trail 27 hour race to a desert and mountain 17 hour race? They are two completely different beasts! I was still staying around a 17 minute per mile pace, and I passed three people who asked how I could walk so quickly. Practice! I practice walking with purpose. I know, without a doubt, that at some point in these ultras, I will need to walk, and I am walking with intention. So, I cruised through those final miles and soon I could hear the sounds of the finish line ahead of me. I didn't look at my watch. I knew I had made it. I ran up that final hill and down the finisher's chute and across that glorious finish line, and a belt buckle was placed in my hand. I had done it with an official finish time of 16:35:18.
My sub-17 finish had earned me a ticket to the Western States Endurance Run lottery. This finish also took the pressure off of me to attempt another 100 miler or other qualifying race this year, so that is a relief! As I sat and gathered myself, I saw Josh and Matt across the way. I stumbled over to them and learned that Josh had finished sub-15 and Matt had finished sub-16! Two excellent races for those guys! I then asked about Kara, as I had not seen her since Black Canyon City. The guys told me she dropped from the race. Really? Uuuuuugh. I hadn't heard from her and she wasn't answering her phone. I gatherer her drop bags along with my own and got in line with the guys for the shuttle back to our cars. I mentioned that Jason said she seemed to be still moving on the race tracker and wasn't far behind me. Then we thought if she hadn't dropped she'd be finishing any minute. And literally within a minute, she was across the finish line! She had made it with two minutes to spare! She had also made it in under 17 hours! I give so much thanks and credit to all of the volunteers out there all day, who met our needs and kept us going. It truly takes a village.
We hopped on the shuttle and made our way back to our car. Kara and I were very cold by this point and just sat and warmed up in the car for a few minutes. Our final drop bags hadn't been at the finish line, so we decided to drive back and see if they had arrived. Still no. We headed back to the Meyers' house, completely exhausted. Much to our surprise, the house was decorated for us! Everywhere we looked there were signs of congratulations! What a sweet homecoming!
We quickly showered and climbed into bed, but sleep was nearly impossible. My feet and legs were throbbing and I just couldn't get comfortable. In the morning, Michelle offered to go pick up our drop bags for us, as we had to pack for our flight. This was so nice of her and she even returned with giant cinnamon rolls for us! And then Pete and Michelle offered to drive us to the airport, return our rental car and drop us off right at check-in! This was amazing because we were moving about as fast as two 90 year old ladies! At the airport, a Starbucks stop was a must. Kara had hooked us up with first class seats on the return flight, and that extra leg room was heaven!
And just like that, we were back in Detroit. We gathered our bags and headed out to find Jason, our return chauffeur. We must have looked like quite the pair because he jumped out when he saw us hobbling down the sidewalk towards him.
So here I am, four days post race, mostly recovered. I have zero races planned for the rest of the year, but I am not worried. I'm sure my friends with their crazy ideas will talk me into something soon. Actually, I've already been propositioned for Hennepin 100 and Indiana Trail 100 and races in Scotland and Maryland. Who knows where I'll land next!
